I’m a fan of freedom, and getting out in nature. Driving on electricity that can be generated via solar power is even better, not to mention cheaper than old school liquid fuels. The ability to cook food and sleep in my car is essential for my random unplanned vacations. This requires a few modifications.
Even before I picked up my Tesla Model 3, I was test-fitting a refrigerator. The ACOPOWER P15 fits amazingly well in the trunk. Some links used are affiliate links. By buying through the links I may receive a commission for the sale. This has no effect on the price for you.
ACOPOWER 4°F True Freezing, 12V/24V DC and 110V AC Portable Compressor Fridge Freezer fit for car and Home (16 Quarts) https://amzn.to/2ZNJmJS
The uneven floor of the trunk gives it a little angle, but it’s easy to use spacers to make it level.
Overall it’s pretty good for a low cost compressor fridge. Not as as silent or as even cooling as an Engle, but it’s 1/3 the price and more importantly – it fits. I’ve used it for weeks at a time. It works well and doesn’t disturb my sleeping, and I’m pretty sensitive to fridge noise.
Power comes from the 12V cigarette lighter outlet. The unit also includes an AC adaptor in case you are using it at home. Power draw is negligible compared to the idle power of keeping the Tesla awake. Which brings up an issue: The Tesla will go to sleep, and the fridge will stop cooling shortly after parking unless the car is either charging, or kept awake by “Dog Mode” or “Keep Climate On” both of which use noticeable battery energy for the HVAC overnight. Now that we have “Sentry Mode,” that may be a lower energy way to keep the car awake, and someday soon (in Elon time!) I also expect “Camp Mode” will keep the 12V outlet awake.
A Taylor wireless indoor outdoor thermometer is ideal for monitoring the fridge temps. The smaller number on the display below is the “outdoor” or fridge temperature. Here is a link to the unit on Amazon.
Taylor Precision Products Wireless Digital Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer
By the way, the fridge temp settings are a bit optimistic, but it will act as a freezer if set to a low enough setting. I like to put frozen foods in it while shopping so I don’t have to buy them last and rush home.
Please leave questions, comments or suggestions in the comments below. I’m always happy to edit the blog for clarity and completeness.
UPDATE, 9/18/20
I have since learned of similar but slightly larger fridge that also fits in the Sub-Trunk of the Model 3 though it may push up a bit on the trunk cover due to slightly taller height.
If I were to do it again, I would try out this F40C4TMP Portable Refrigerator.
My original ACOPOWER P15 Capacity: 15L 16 quarts; Dimensions: 22.4 x 12.6 x 10.2 inches
F40C4TMP Portable Refrigerator Capacity: 18L 20 Quarts; Dimensions: 22.4 x 12.6 x 11.2 Inches
https://amzn.to/3cb0MVu This is the F40C4TMP fridge with a carry bag included.
https://amzn.to/3myXVdY Here is the F40C4TMP for a bit less without the carry bag.
Thanks to “The Tech of Tech” on youtube. He covers this model in the Model 3 in this video:
https://youtu.be/F0H3wSraV2E
This site contains paid links, by buying through these links I may receive a commission for the sale. This has no effect on the price for you.
Hiya Ot-
Where does the heat go when the trunk lid is closed?! Do you prop it open when you’re not sleeping over it?
Cheers from Oz,
Andrew
PS- Dad just bought a LR RWD 3! Now he’s looking at how to put more solar on the house, as he’s only got ~2.2kW now. 😃
Congrats to your Dad on the Model 3, what fun!
From what I can tell an average Model 3 driver needs about 3kW of solar for annual use, but since he is off-grid he may want much more, at a winter ~70 degree angle, to cover his winter needs. I’m sure he’s looking forward to Tesla completing the Laytonville supercharger!
The total heat produced in refrigeration mode is surprisingly only about 11 Watts, so I decided that the leakage around the trunk carpet is enough to cool it. It might be a good test to put the remote thermometer outside the fridge.
Hmmm… that 11W must be once the fridge and contents have reached steady state at the set temperature, otherwise I would think that the heat being extracted from the contents would certainly be more than 11W. Nevertheless, it sounds like a wonderfully efficient machine!
Yes, that would be average steady state. What I realized is that although the heat pumped out of the insulated container may be 50 Watts or so, most of that is just circulating back through the insulation. It’s electrical draw that indicates the power given off by the contained system. Most small 12V compressor fridges fridges draw a peak of about 3.5 Amps when running, and average under an amp for refrigeration support. Variable with heat load and ambient temps. So that indicates the heat given off in the trunk. 🙂
Seems the heat would be welcome at night…unless it’s roasting outside.
Do you have any pictures of how you have connected the fridge? As far as I know there isn’t any 12v outlet in the trunk in the M3, or?
How are you running the power to the 12v outlet?
oops, it seems I’m not getting notifications of comments. Sorry to you and Jimmi for the delays.
You should be able to plug into the power socket in the center console. True, I didn’t do that. I made a special connection to the DC-DC converter connection under the rear seat right side, I haven’t gotten around to writing that part up yet. It also involves a more complicated precharge circuit that I use to run the 700W inveter for my juicer, but the precharge is not needed to connect the low power fridge.
thanks for your excellent blog. So is totally safe as VCC 12V source the DC-DC connector (directly without precharge circuit) for the small consumption fridge?? which red wiring type you suggest to attach there?..As I noticed this connection is not switched (and has 200A) but I can use the switch sure present on the fridge. There is one ground point on the trunk left side as I saw in this video minute 6:05 *, so is safe if I take this one as the ground?…Many thanks.
*https://images.etrailer.com/static/images/video/install-trailer-wiring-2018-tesla-model-3-119250kit.webm
I used a link with a 10A fuse ad 12 AWG wire that is connected to the under seat DC-DC post. Actually I have two fuses and larger wire for an inverter, but that needs to be another post.
Correct, the car does not mind the fridge load connected directly. It will run when the car is awake.
Any ground that connects to steel body should be fine. The one I used is closer to the rear seat.
Hello Otmar,
I have imported one of these fridges to Australia and as you say, it fits perfectly. I have plugged it into the 12 volt outlet and nothing happens. I have tested it in another vehicle and have tested the outlet with another device, so neither the fridge or the outlet are seemingly at fault. Could it be drawing too much power?
I assume you’ve worked it out by now, sorry for the delay.
I did just test the fridge in the ACC socket in my Model 3 and it runs fine.
If for some reason your e-Fuse trips, then the car may need to go to sleep in order to reset it. So Sentry, Summon and AC off, close the doors and wait a while. Usually 10 minutes was enough, but could be longer if the 12V battery is charging.
Hi Otmar, great post.
I just picked up the same fridge and I was wondering if anything changed in the last year as to how you power this and possibly if permanent 12v was found somewhere in the car?
Thank you 🙂
Hi,
Have you tested the sentry mode with your fridge? I’d want to have this on my Model 3 as well.
Yes, it seems to keep it running fine.
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